“AÇAÍ
REPLACES WHEATGRASS IN BLENDERS AT JUICE BARS” by Tatiana Boncompagni
Special to
THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
Sitting at a cafe table in a chic Manhattan fitness club, Kacy Duke takes a sip
of a purplish-pink smoothie made with bananas, juices and açaí, a fruit from the
Amazon that fans say helps boost energy and lower cholesterol. "This is good,"
says Ms. Duke, a personal trainer who drinks about six of them a week.
Wheatgrass, protein shakes -- so 2002. At juice bars and health stores around
the country, the hip new taste is açaí, (pronounced ah-sigh-EE) a grape-size,
deep-purple berry that grows atop palm trees in the Brazilian jungle.
. . . [A]t Juice It Up, a
California chain, açaí drinks and dishes account for 10% of sales. "People drive
out of their way to get it," says Brandon Gough, the company's vice president of
marketing. Even non-health types are catching on: Restaurants like Blue Door
at Miami's Delano hotel are serving it with dinner entrées such as braised veal.
Fans say the fruit (which comes to the U.S. as frozen pulp) not only tastes
good, but also is good for you -- packed with anthocyanins, the same antioxidants that give red wine its
health benefits. And, in a hat trick of health-bar chic, it's good for the
Amazon, too, because it's collected by local families who can earn as much as
$1,000 during the December-to-August harvest season (twice as much as they can
usually make). "It gives them income and another land use besides cutting down
the trees and raising cattle," says Chris Kilham, who teaches ethnobotany at the
University of Massachusetts at Amherst.
Of course, the fruit is just the latest exotic newcomer looking for a place in
U.S. produce aisles -- remember the starfruit? And the açaí's newfound cachet
would probably take a lot of Brazilians by surprise: There, açaí, whose taste
has been likened to blueberry with a hint of chocolate, typically is eaten as a
puddinglike mush over bananas for breakfast.
As to the health claims: "It is very nutritional," says Elisabetta Politi, a
nutritionist with the Duke University Diet and Fitness Center in Durham, N.C.
"But I don't think it is this magical food." Don't tell that to Ms. Duke, who
not only drinks the stuff, but also has mixed it into a homemade mask for her
skin. "I thought because of all of the antioxidants, it would be good," she
says. (The result: "I glowed," she says.)